A Look Into Ms. Kasnoff’s Bedtime Skincare RoutineOctober 5, 2017
A Medical Aesthetician’s Personal Skincare Practices For Aging Skin.
If you know me, you know I am a less is more lady, and my skincare regime is no different. Like a morning beauty routine, a proper nighttime product regime is crucial to keeping skin healthy and youthful and makeup sitting flawlessly on the face. Here, I outline my own skincare regimen utilizing the Kasnoff Skincare 1-2-3 step skincare philosophy. When finished, no matter what cleanser or treatment used, your skin should look and feel great. If makeup helps you start the day on the right foot, then cleansing should be essential to helping you end the day right, too!
Step 1 : Remove The “Day”
As we go through our day, environmental dirt and debris along with moisturizers, sunscreen (!!), foundation, concealer, powder, eyeliner, mascara, and lipstick mix and muddy with surface oils and dead skin cells. This effectively creates a mask on the the surface skin, or what I call “The Day”. Unappealing? Yes! But don’t fret, everyone has a Day to remove, and everyone’s Day is unique to their skin.
How I Remove My Day
Cleansing is the #1 way to keep skin healthy, happy, and radiant. Forget those serums and magic potions promising to reverse aging lines and renew a youthful look. If you do not invest in a good facial cleanser and adopt a nightly cleansing practice, you can kiss healthy skin good-bye.
I remove my “Day” with a pea size amount of cleanser and mix it with water on my fingertips until it turns into a creamy, foaming substance that can easily be distributed across the face. My go-to cleanser is Kasnoff Stimulating Cleansing Paste, but I do switch it up depending on how my skin is behaving to the weather (more on that at the end of this blog). Not only do you activate the ingredients this way, but you also protect your face from aggressive scrubbing.
For those with waterproof or extra eye makeup, not to worry! Kasnoff cleansers contain a host of botanical oils that act as a safe and effective makeup remover.
I gently rub in a circular motion to promote blood circulation and collagen production for 1 minute or until my whole face is thoroughly covered. Then…I rinse and repeat.
Why cleanse your face a second time?
After the first layer of Day is removed, the 2nd wash can actually penetrate deep into the pores and follicles, loosening debris, stimulating blood flow, and gently exfoliating the epidermis.
Pro Tip to boost your cleanser...
Cleansers can be masks too, IF the ingredient list is focused on treatment. Once, or perhaps twice a week depending on how my skin is behaving, I leave my cleanser on for 3 minutes for a deeper, acid free, mini-mask. You can do this with any daily cleanser or perhaps a specialty mask treatment, but I prefer the Stimulating Cleansing Paste. This cleanser feels and smells like minty heaven and my pores literally act like they can breathe again (kind of like how your mouth feels after popping a mint!).
When cleansing your face in the shower or at the basin, don't forget your neck (front and back and chest in addition to behind your ears. For even more exfoliation, or when you skin feels really congested, try using a soft cloth (or even paper towels) in place of your fingers; just make sure to gently rub in a circular motion, like you would polishing a car.
In-grown hairs on your legs and under arms?
Use your facial cleanser under your arms to break down deodorant build up, another area that can be prone to breakouts and ingrown hairs.
Step 2 : The Time For Night Cream
After cleansing, I always, ALWAYS, apply my night cream. Once my skin is free of makeup, dirt and debris, it is ready for awesome oils, vitamins, and extracts to help it regenerate throughout the night. My skin craves Peptides, especially as I get older and collagen and elastin production have slowed down. Peptides work to improve underlying skin structure while performing the function of a “chaperone” molecule. Similar to constructing a building where a project manager coordinates the various jobs, this molecule is involved in the orderly, rapid maturation of collagen. Essential to any aging beauty!
I use Peptides when my skin is dry and looking sluggish and the lines are showing. This is usually in Winter when everything including collagen production slows down. During the warmer months, I focus on Brightening and pigment blasting ingredients to undo what longer days in the sunshine has done. And last but certainly not least, I use oil control ingredients such as Glycolic and Salicylic acid. This is usually during heat waves and near my menstrual cycle. I use just enough to cover my entire face neck (back and front) and chest; usually the size of a nickel will suffice. Applying to damp skin is even better as it will glide on better and penetrate faster.
Step 3: An Extra Boost (When Needed)
A well formulated treatment cream should have these key components, peptides, amino acids, antioxidants, humectants, and may also contain alpha/beta hydroxy acids and/or Botanical extracts or oils. Kasnoff has four: Reparative, Peptide, Brightening, and Oil Control, so you can simply choose your main skin concern.
But what about all those serums on the market?
They certainly have a place, especially if you are not using a professional grade treatment cream. They also fall into the categories mentioned above of repairing, increasing collagen, brightening, and combating oil. However, it is possible to overwhelm your skin with too many potent ingredients and cause irritation, blemishes, or clogged pores, and milia. I recommend a serum if you are not using a potent treatment cream, or if your skin is affected by a harsh environment, illness, or stress for an extra boost.
When I need a bit more support or just want something lighter than a cream, I use one of my four therapeutic EO blends.
As I have aged, my eye area has become more vulnerable to milia (tiny white spots similar to acne) and needs a bit more hydration. To help remedy that specific problem, I created ReEyedrate Essential Oil Blend. It is a natural blend of Sage and Everlast botanical oils in a Rosehip seed and sesame seed oil base that supplies moisture and cell support without any occlusive ingredients. When I need a spot treatment, I use Control, for extra circulation and a better tone and youthful appearance, I use Revitalize, and if I am inflamed or irritated and in need of some calming, I reach for Soothe. I mix a few drops of the oil blend mixed with water and press into my skin for a lightweight moisturizing effect. But if I feel like my skin really needs it, I mix a few drops of said EO blend into my treatment cream, too.
As a certified Aromatherapist, I know the tremendous benefits essential oils of Flora can provide, but I also know these potent oils can be extremely irritating and sun sensitizing if not blended properly. Ask for a sample to test skin reactivity before integrating a product into your skincare regimen.
Proper skincare does not have to be complicated.
There are numerous professional skin care companies making amazing products that work. Just remember to target your skin’s underlying condition: aging, pigmentation, sensitivity or blemishes. Keep the cleansing consistent and your treatment simple, and I promise you will see your skin in a newer fresher light.
Until next time,
Wondering how to choose the right cleanser?
Look for one that is pH balanced and contains some of the same ingredients you would look for in an effective treatment cream, such as amino acids, humectants, peptides, antioxidants and therapeutic extracts and oils. These key ingredients protect the skin's protective water/oil barrier (acid mantle) while ensuring your skin gets corrective and restorative properties first thing in the morning and before bed at night. When skin is sluggish and congested, like in transitional seasons or in Summer due to sunscreen and sun, Stimulating Cleansing Paste is the way to go. Ingredients like Peppermint, Spearmint, and Eucalyptus essential oils offer incredible antibacterial properties, while Rosemary, Hops and Thyme promote increased circulation. During dryer months, like in Fall, Purifying Cream Cleanser with it’s mixture of seaweeds and algae, French seawater and Vitamin C, provides an acid free exfoliation and deep cleansing without being too harsh. If skin is feeling extra dry, like in Winter with outdoor windy activities, Mineral Mud Cleanser is the answer. The unique ingredient list contains Volcanic ash for it's mineralizing and detoxifying properties and glycolic acid for cell rejuvenation along with vitamins and botanicals. I love to use this thick mud-like cleanser for an all over body mask, too!