Increase Collagen Production & Decrease Wrinkles with Microdermabrasion

March 15, 2017

The Fastest, Easiest, and Most Painless Way to Look Younger in San Francisco

Recognized as #1 treatment recommended by makeup and skin professionals before a big event, microdermabrasion is a safe, non-chemical, mildly invasive cosmetic procedure that gives a marked improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The process helps to regenerate the epidermal cell structure, which increases skin's elasticity and collagen production, resulting in a more youthful appearance and even complexion. Unlike more invasive treatments such as a chemical peels and laser treatments, it can be completed in less than an hour with no downtime and produces mild, if any, side effects (the reason why it is sometimes referred to as the "lunchtime peel”). Although it is primarily used for skin resurfacing, it can treat a wide range of skin abnormalities like pigmentation and ingrown hairs, too.

First, let's discuss wrinkles...

A healthy, young complexion has a smooth and unblemished “hornified layer” (stratum cornium in dermatological text) on the outside of the skin to protect from outside aggressors such as the environment, UV rays, and moisture loss.  The underlying dermis produces plenty of collagen  for structure, elastin for suppleness and elasticity, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGS) to help maintain healthy moisture levels.  As we age, the cell turnover (or its metabolic ability to recreate) slows down and our skin become drier, less elastic, and less able to protect itself from damage.  Inevitably, fine lines, creases, and wrinkles start to occur as well as dark spot and blemishes.  Yes, there are things in life that speed up the process, like excess exposure to UV and free radical (think sun, wind, heat, and cold), as well as lifestyle (insert smoking and stress here!) but there are also methods to slow down the aging process.  The best way to combat the signs of aging is with prevention like using sunscreen daily, applying high quality treatment creams to introduce lost moisture and vitamins, as well as mechanical intervention like that of microdermabrasion.

How Microdermabrasion Decrease Fine Lines

Dead skin cells are a ‘flat’ shape and do not reflect light well, making wrinkles and fine lines look even more pronounced when you have a build-up of layers of old skin on your face (not to mention pimples and breakouts from the congestion!). A microdermabrasion treatment essentially removes the skin’s outermost layers of dead cells (the “horney layer”) revealing the younger, healthier skin underneath. These new, underlying skin cells are plump and round, making the fine lines much less noticeable and creating a more youthful, glowing, appearance. After just one treatment, patients will notice a decrease of fine lines and shallow wrinkles, such as those at the corner of the eyes, around the mouth, and on the forehead, feel more hydrated and look more even toned. even toned.

Think of a microdermabrasion like getting your teeth cleaned at the dentist.  You can wash off as much dead skin and surface debris as you can at home, but you need to see a professional to really get off the gunk.  All hard to remove dirt and plaque will be removed during the session, but eventually will build up again depending on your skin type and lifestyle.

Increased Blood Flow & Other Benefits

While the tool removes the uneven layers of calcified skin cells, it also helps helps decrease the signs of aging by stimulating blood circulation and increasing collagen and elastin production.  By causing slight surface injury, it ‘jump starts’ the healing process, thus stimulating cell metabolism so new healthy skin cells can start to reveal themselves. With each pass of the diamond microdermabrasion tool, a gentle, consistent suction activates blood flow helping to relieve inflammation (especially around the cheek area) and increases oxygenation of the blood.  After a treatment clients will often comment on how their faces look less puffy and tired.

I explain that by increasing blood flow and essentially draining the lymphatics (the nodes that process toxin and waste in the body), the skin’s capillaries can function (like breathing!) more efficiently and therefore hold less fluid creating a more “taught” look.

Aggressive Microdermabrasion

Most microdermabrasion treatments are painless (think vacuum cleaner), but it can be pushed.  By taking a more aggressive approach, microdermabrasion can be used to treat deeper lines, scarring, and UV pigmentation.  A 2009 study conducted by University of Michigan's Dr. Darius J. Karimipour found that aggressive coarse-grit microdermabrasion elicits a wound-healing response associated with dermal remodeling and type I and II procollagen induction. With the added abrasion (think of this tool like sandpaper, you can choose a variety of grains for different depths of surfacing), you inflict greater injury to the skin, which induces a heightened restorative response in the skin. "These data suggest that aggressive microdermabrasion may result in significant cosmetic improvement while minimizing patient morbidity", Karimipour said. Read more about his study in the October 2009 issue of the journal Archives of Dermatology.

NOTE: It is important when choosing this method of treatment you are in the hands of a very experienced and skilled practitioner.

Diamond Peel Microdermabrasion at The Skin Clinic

Traditionally, a crystal microdermabrasion system contains a pump, a connecting tube, a hand piece, and a vacuum. While the pump creates a high-pressure stream of inert crystals, such as aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, sodium chloride, and sodium bicarbonate to abrade the skin and “much like sandblasting”, the vacuum removes the crystals and exfoliated skin cells.  Think of the sensation of a cat licking your skin. 🙂  The diamond microdermabrasion system (the method of choice at The Skin Clinic) replaces these crystals with a roughened/diamond surface of the tip in the wand.  Unlike the crystal microdermabrasion system, the diamond microdermabrasion system does not produce particles from crystals that may be inhaled into a patient's nose or blown into the eyes. Hence, diamond microdermabrasion is safer for use on areas around the eyes and lips. By using diamonds, which are natural minerals, there is less likely to be an adverse skin reaction and the skin is able to heal more quickly. Performing this treatment mechanically alters the epidermis and invigorates cell renewal to create a healthy, balanced skin surface, and makes it possible to improve or eliminate many skin conditions and skin imperfections. Diamond Peel technology can easily bring you a step closer to realizing healthier, younger-looking skin because of its sensitivity--to you and your specific needs. Generally, the slower the movement of the hand piece against the skin and the more numbers of passes over the skin, the deeper the treatment.

What You Should Expect During & After A Microdermabrasion

Like with any medical facial, you will want to avoid sun and wind exposure, and exfoliants a week prior, as well as excessive perspiring directly before the treatment is performed. During the treatment, your skin will be prepped with a deep pore cleansing to remove any surface oils and debris, as well as a mild peel or enzyme to aid in the exfoliation process. It may be slightly uncomfortable, but should not be painful.  Your skin will be pulled tight to allow the diamond tip to slide effortlessly across your skin, and will be repeatedly rubbed over at a specific angle to free the dead skin cells and allow them to be easily vacuumed.  Afterwards, your skin may feel a bit sensitive, almost like you have had a mild sunburn. This is completely normal and will go away within hours.  Since the new skin revealed has never seen the earth’s elements before, applying SPF and moisturizing cream every day is essential to keeping it healthy and happy.  

Note: Patients may occasionally experience “hot spots” or areas that were worked deeper to remove scarring or pigmentation.  A small amount of Bactracin cream will help soothe the area and keep bacteria away.

Until your next facial~
Christina Kasnoff

Learn more about Christina's "less is more" skincare philosophy.

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