5 Reasons Why Aestheticians Prefer Mineral Makeup

November 6, 2017

Why mineral makeup is the go-to choice for skincare advocates.

My love affair with mineral makeup began after years of cleansing skin in preparation for facial treatments.  I was having a difficult time removing client's daily makeup foundations and concealers, and it goes without saying it was equally hard for them to totally remove their makeup at home, too! Not only was I finding old foundation between the layers of dead skin that had been building up over time, but the heavily pigmented and preservative laden makeup was also causing damage and discoloration. A noticeable factor when clients repeatedly told me there skin was so much better before starting said foundation, too. Not good for an aesthetician to hear!

At the time (think early 2000s) there were very few professional grade foundations, let alone mineral foundations, on the market that contained high quality ingredients like antioxidants and moisturizers, as well as dye-free, fragrance-free, and paraben-free formulas. And the ones that were available were too hard to use! They were thick formulations with ingredients that darkened on the skin, giving an orange look, or were loose powders that required professional help during application. That was enough for me! I began to research lab formulations of various makeups, including mineral, that would give my clients the look and texture they desired on their skin as well as offer the highest standard of skincare.

Why did I chose mineral makeup as the main characteristic of Kasnoff Cosmetics (hello! I do say #unearthescienceofbeauty for a reason!)? After years of due diligence and seeing results first hand, here are the main reasons I believe mineral makeup offers superior and safer foundation options.

1. Mineral makeup removes easily from the face.

Traditional foundation formulas that are packed with color dyes, binders, and preservatives tend to have less coverage than milled minerals do. Much more of the product is needed to create a flawless complexion, therefore much more needs to be removed at the end of the day. A well formulated mineral foundation with skin friendly ingredients will have humectants (like aloe, honey, and glycerin), amino acids, antioxidants, and essential oils. These ingredients will help mineral makeup sit lightly on the skin since they are not easily absorbed and leave little to remove at night.

Does this mean that mineral makeup will disappear? Not at all!

The finely milled minerals which give the complexion tone enhancing color and UV protection will work with the skins natural oils to sit effortlessly on the skin. Less product is needed to achieve that flawless look which means less product penetrates into the skin.

2. Mineral makeup naturally protects from UV rays & provides antioxidant protection.

Mineral makeup adds extra protection because it contains zinc oxide, titanium dioxide as well as iron oxides. These ingredients deflect UV rays from skin, and when combined with chemical sunblocks -such as Avebenzone- create a total block from the sun. A quality formulated mineral makeup foundation will have carefully selected minerals such as Magnesium, Sodium, Potassium, Zinc, and Chloride, all of which provide superior antioxidant protection from environmental and UV aggressors. Many non-mineral makeup formulations also contain these ingredients synthesized in labs, which are not directly mined from the earth. I would be careful to read the ingredient labels for the word “milled” to ensure a proper mineral makeup formulation.

Note: Even with this protection, you cannot rely on mineral makeup alone to protect you skin because not enough is put on for optimal protection. Wear a daily SPF of 15 or more under makeup, and reapply every 2 hours depending on exposure to the sun.

3. Mineral makeup match skin tone effortlessly.

How easily a formulation matches skin tone depends on a few factors. I chose specific formulations for Kasnoff Cosmetics because the lab used some really cool, advanced makeup science called Optically Activated Particles, or O.A.P.. These particles are unique, patented luminescent ingredients that emit and diffuse light to dramatically reduce the appearance of skin imperfections, including wrinkles, shadows, and skin discolorations. Because of the dense nature of mineral makeup formulations, much less product is needed on the skin. This allows the skin to “breathe” during the day, benefiting from the moisture in the air instead of being trapped under a blanket of foundation. Since you don’t need as much foundation, the natural tone of your skin shines through and enhances your complexion rather than covering it up. #naturalbeauty anyone?

4. Mineral makeup is a safer option for sensitive skin.

Mineral formulations tend not to have chemical preservatives because the mineral particles -or inorganic ingredients- tend to be an unfriendly home to bacteria. This is why those suffering from acne, rosacea, or any other skin condition benefit from mineral makeup. Also, most mineral foundations contain Zinc Oxide as well as Titanium Dioxide that are anti-inflammatory which can be very helpful for reactive skin. Finally, mineral makeup formulations allow skin to breathe and tend not to clog pores due to the lack of preservatives, like parabens. Other ingredients that are often found in traditional foundations include dyes, fragrance, bismuth oxychloride, petroleum derivatives, and urea. These ingredients are aggravating to sensitive complexions and must be avoided at all costs.

Pro Tip: Ask for samples to see if a product works for your skin! If a brand stands behind their makeup and skincare, they will (should) be more than happy to provide some.

5. Mineral makeup wears well throughout the day.

Foundations stay in place on the skin if it works in concert with the skin's actual makeup. No, not make-up, but composition. Makeup containing skincare ingredients such as antioxidants (Vitamin C, Vitamin A and derivatives like Retinol, Retinyle Palmitate, Retin-A, Ascorbyl Palmitate, and Tocopheryl Acetate), humectants, amino acids, and of course minerals are easily absorbed into the skin creating a well-hydrated canvas (your face!) for the makeup to sit on. The minerals will work with the skin's water and oil balance, rather than lifting and pulling away from the skin, which many oil heavy or oil-free, preservative, and dye heavy formulations tend to due.

Pro tip: for optimal dermal health and protection, look for these minerals in the ingredient list.

  • Magnesium, or the “mineral of beauty”, is necessary for the enzymes that regulate DNA replication and repair. Without it, the skin is subject to a host of harmful free radical damage and inflammation.
  • Potassium is a key player in cell integrity by maintaining electrolyte balance and internal fluids keeping cells hydrated and internally moisturized.
  • Sodium is an important component to good skin health because of its ability to fight the radicals that accelerate the aging process
  • Zinc Chloride absorb a large amount of water from the atmosphere, helping to keep the skin well hydrated. It is an essential trace element that plays an important role in cell metabolism and the proper function.

As I have said before in my blog, it is the quality of each ingredient and how they work with each other that makes a formulation good or bad. Some makeup brands have lower quality ingredients, even with a higher price tag, and tend to look heavy or settle into fines lines of the skin. Just because a particular makeup product is expensive does not make it good quality! Ask for a line’s mineral makeup samples and test on your skin before purchasing a full product.

Ask yourself: how does the makeup wear? How does it feel on the skin? How does it look on the skin? Does this mineral foundation give coverage? And...was the foundation easy to remove with my daily cleanser?

Remember, only YOU can make the best decision for your skin.

Until next time~
Christina Kasnoff

Thanks for reading my blog! After over 25 years in the skincare world, it is a labor of love and I am truly grateful for your support. Click share at the top to send to a friend, and feel free to shop mineral makeup essentials by clicking the button below. Live in San Francisco and in need of an affordable, effective facial? Come see me at The Skin Clinic, too! xoxo~

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